Sewing Fundamentals: Needles and Feet

Oh so boring. All the technical mechanics of a sewing machine. I know. Believe me. But, for any of you beginners out there...it's good information. Today I want to (quickly) go over needles and presser feet. Just to give you a basic understanding of how they work.


Sewing Machine Needles
I have no idea why, but I think these are actually kinda cool. Maybe because they're usually pointy and dangerous? There are all sorts of complicated needles out there, but your most used, basic ones come in one of 3 varieties: sharp, ball-point, or chisel point:

Regular Point: This is your workhorse. Perfect for woven fabrics (such as cotton, linen, denim, etc.) because the tight weave of the fabric will accommodate the force of the sharp needle - meaning that any small cuts to the fibers will not create holes.

Ball Point: Perfect for knit fabrics and loose weaves. This needle enters the fabric and pushes the threads aside to create a hole. This keeps these fabrics from unraveling from having cut threads as would be created by the sharper, regular point needle.

Chisel Point: This needle is the hardcore one of the bunch. You need to sew some leather or some such material...this is what you want. This needle is capable of making a hole on a solid surface (unlike using the weave of something like cotton).

I won't go into the names of all the sections on the shaft of the needle. Suffice it to say, there is an eye for your thread to go through and a shank with a flat side that slips into place and is secured on your machine. PLEASE NOTE: you should change your needle before starting every project. Needles are small and there could be chips in the point or dullness after use. Don't worry, they aren't that expensive.

Presser Feet 

There are as many presser feet as there are stars in the sky. I exaggerate, but it's kinda true. Feet can be easily changed on your sewing machine to accommodate zipper sewing, buttonholes, quilting, blind hems, etc. Your machine comes with a few but there are hundreds you can add to your arsenal. But beginning sewists, don't let all the feet that came with your machine freak you out too much. Seriously. The one you will use most though is the all-purpose foot that comes installed on your machine. It will be your best tool for most basic jobs in a zigzag or straight stitch.

Yer basic, run of the mill, all-purpose presser foot.

The marriage of the right presser foot and needle will really help your sewing experience be enjoyable. Who wants to be frustrated by puckering fabric or breaking threads? Figuring out what tools are most appropriate for the job are just as important as what project you've chosen. Hang in there you newbies, this isn't as complicated as it seems. Cross my heart, hope to die, stick a chisel point needle in my eye.

So, now you can thread your machine, and figure out what needle and foot to use. Let's talk stitches next time!

–Cassandra

Sewing Fundamentals: The Machine

About a year or two after I finished college. I was given a 1960's-70's era second-hand sewing machine that looked like it had never been used. I learned to sew and it changed my life. For the next 20 years I sewed on my trusty White 1099. She was awesome. Every part was metal and every stitch was right.

Not my White...but mine was just like this.

Two years ago my husband bought me my first brand-new sewing machine. Smooth and fancy compared to the old White and she was soon donated to charity. But I still think about her all the time, wondering where she ended up. Hope whoever bought her felt her magic and falls in love with sewing the way I did.

Every serious sewist I know either loves or hates their machine. I was lucky to have fallen in love right at the start. I have not "loved" quite like that since....but things with my Bernina look REALLY, REALLY promising. My new machine has been a very patient companion so far.

When you are first starting out, simple is better. I think that's why my vintage sewing machine with very few bells and whistles was perfect for me. So when shopping for your first machine, keep it simple. You can always upgrade later. Stick with good brands, maybe even try a reconditioned older machine like I had. Like I've said before, it's amazing how many things I was able to make on that old machine with the thimbleful of knowledge I had.

The first thing I am going to tell you is to READ YOUR MANUAL. Cover to cover. Even if you don't understand it all. Just read it. You will refer back to this booklet over and over again. Give yourself some base knowledge before you start trying to thread it. Sewing machines can be frustrating, so knowledge is power. What I am explaining in this series is for the new learner so I am trying not to make it needlessly complicated.

You too can keep the home fires burning.

Let's get into the mechanics of the machine for a minute. There is a wonderful animated graphic here (created by Swiss Miss) that illustrates how the top thread and the bottom thread create the lockstitch. The top thread is fed by a spool positioned at the top of your machine. This is where you run your thread through the mechanisms (where your manual tells you) winding up at the eye of the needle. The bobbin feeds the lower thread.You fill the bobbin (using your machine's winder function) and pop it in it's place beneath the needle, threading it where your manual directs. All machines have a bobbin, and they all thread a little differently so you really need to make your manual your best friend. Here is a nice video detailing the basics of threading, all machines are different but similar enough to help you get the gist:

Learn a little something about the mechanics and threading today...and then next time we can move on to feet and needles!

–Cassandra