The Dress

I told you before about Cal Patch's online garment design course I'm taking...and how fabulous it is. Well, I have a finished product! A dress that I just adore. It is a simple tunic shape with long sleeves and a wide neckline.

Me mugging for the camera!

I could have chosen to make short sleeves, no sleeves, a collar...etc. That is the beauty of creating patterns from scratch. This freedom has rekindled my interest in garment sewing. Being able to make a pattern that is pretty darn close to my actual shape and then refining it even further on a muslin gives me a finished product that fits better than any commercial pattern ever has. It's more work on the front-end, but way less tailoring on the back-end.

My muslin taking shape.

What I love most about this class is that Cal starts with the basics of garment design. I feel as if I've learned the "best practice" way of drafting a pattern and fitting it properly. All without being snooty or too full of details that go over a beginner's head. I feel like I have a basis for doing more complicated designs.

The edging makes this dress.

The quilter in me wanted to use a bias tape edging around the collar as an accent. I made my own bias tape out of a coordinating (in my mind) fabric using this great tutorial. I did finish the edging by hand because I didn't want to see a stitching line on the front. But that was no big thing considering I recently hand stitched a queen-size quilt binding!

All done during the RuPaul Drag Race finale!

The fabric is Amy Butler Soul Blossoms Passion Lily Mulberry. It is gorgeous. A little loud...but gorgeous! There's no hiding your light under a bushel in this frock. :)

–Cassandra

PS - My friend Troy says this fabric reminds him of this..

Freshness

While Alex has had hands itchy to get out in the dirt and plant, my spring fever has manifested in a different way. Open windows, the sound of rain, and the familiar chirps of birds back from their southern vacation inspire me to clean and sew.

My studio was the focus of my most recent cleaning frenzy. Walls washed, stash organized (as best it could be), and clutter begone! It now feels delicious to be in this space.

Sometimes you have to make a mess to get things clean.

All I want to do is bind fabric with thread. Quilts, garments...you name it! Cotton yardage feels especially crisp and fresh in my hands. (Damn, I sound like one sick individual!)

Ahhh...I can breathe in here...

I've also been loving hand-sewing. Needle, floss, and the tight drum of an embroidery hoop have been just right while I'm watching a movie or sitting on a park bench at the playground.

Chicory coffee and handwork, yes please!

Chain stitch is like a little meditation.

I've picked up my knitting, but yarn is too heavy. Maybe it is me trying to shake off the dregs of the recent arctic blast...I don't know. But the knitting needles are not calling me.

Peace,

Cassandra

PS: In the image of my little embroidery toolkit above, you will see the best marking pen in the known world. It's the Dritz Tailor's Marking Pen. Yowza...it is one of my favorite tools now. Makes a nice, sharp, dark line (in either white or blue) that comes off as easily as it goes on. I know it's more expensive, but it's worth every penny.

Garment Sewing

It's been busy, busy, busy over here!

Last weekend I spent both Saturday and Sunday cleaning my studio. The place was a hot mess and it needed a heavy hand of purging and polishing. But oh, how it shines now! It's making me really itchy to spend some more time down there designing and sewing. I'm attracted to a clean room like a moth to a flame.

One of the projects on my sewing table right now is a tunic dress for me. I'm taking this amazing class taught by Cal Patch on Creativebug where I'm learning how to do proper body measurements and draft a pattern. Yes, draft a real sewing pattern to my own measurements! In this course she's teaching the tunic, an a-line skirt, and how to draft a pattern from an existing garment that you love. The tunic and the skirt are very basic but she goes through the process of modifying them to suit your taste with collars and waistbands, ruffles, etc.

Drafting a sleeve under Cal's tutelage.

I've always wanted to learn how to design my own garments properly. And the instruction in this class is just what I needed. Very hands-on and the technical information is explained in plain talk. Learning these basic rules of pattern design has really given me a lot of confidence. Expect to see me strolling down the avenue in something original this summer! (And surely talking your ear off about it here, ahem)

I've also been sewing up some quilt blocks that I've never tried before. It's going well, I've learned a ton. Expect a new quilt block tutorial here very soon!

Here is a close-up sneak-peek!

Have a beautiful day,

Cassandra

PS - Cal Patch also has a great book on pattern design here.

Birdie Sling - Pattern Review

This weekend, my cousin and I stayed up to the wee hours sewing for ourselves. I tell you...it felt great! We drank pots and pots of tea, had MeTV's awesome Saturday night lineup as background noise, and laughed and sewed all night long. What did we make? Gorgeous purses!

After an exhaustive Pinterest idea search, we settled on Amy Butler's Birdie Sling. A trip to the fabric store (or two...ugh) later we were set to sew. Well, sewing after we cut out the pattern pieces for a couple hours. Wow, there is a lot of interfacing to cut for this bag (two different kinds even). Not something I would skimp on in this case either. This is a very large purse and I think it would be too heavy to support it's shape without that extra support.

This pattern has a lot of nice details like pleats and gussets. And I do think it's those little things that make this bag as cute as it is. It is seriously adorable. And now that I've been carrying it for a few days, I'm head-over-heels with the single large strap and large inside pockets.

My interior pocket panel on the left, my cousin's on the right.

As always, Amy Butler's written instructions are bulletproof. This is my third time using one of her patterns (gumdrop pillows and Frenchy Bag) and I would make another in a heartbeat.

I'm such a fan of the written sewing instructions from contemporary designers, I like them a lot more than the traditional ones from companies like Butterick and Simplicity. Patterns by folks like Amy Butler anticipate what is going to trip me up...and add extra illustration or instruction at that point. I really appreciate that, it makes those moments real learning opportunities.

Another great idea is to tackle a new pattern with a friend. My cousin and I broke up the work of pinning, sewing, and pressing between the two of us and the work just clipped along so nicely.

My fabric choices for the exterior were an Anna Maria Horner (from my stash) and Julianna Horner (Ana's daughter) from JoAnne. How weird is that mother-daughter combo? Completely unplanned. I lined the inside with a random calico I got from JoAnne as well. Again...why am I so surprised when I find things I like at that store??

Buying way more than I needed! Couldn't resist.

I don't wear such busy patterns on my clothes (usually)...but I do like my accessories to pack a little more punch. And this one looks like a big pop of happiness.

–Cassandra

It's Done

At least I think it is. Part of me keeps threatening to do some more hand quilting with embroidery floss. But the other part is telling me this thing is so busy that no one will even see it.

 I just love it. And my little bear does too. There was something really sweet about the way he hopped into bed and snuggled up underneath his new quilt as soon as it was done. Makes it all worth it somehow.

This quilt uses earthy tones (as did my previous quilt), but with more of an emphasis on orange/orchre. The blocks included are: log cabins, Dutchman's puzzle, pinwheels, Ana Maria's feather block, a large Dresden plate, and more. All of them were so much fun to make and I'm sure they will be showing up again in my upcoming quilts.

Speaking of upcoming quilts, the next one has begun...

Cassandra

PS - Happy Birthday Alex!

Endings and Beginnings

My latest "big project" is almost complete. This would be a queen-sized bed quilt for my youngest boy. I dropped off the pieced quilt top and back to my long-arm quilter friend, Stitchlilly, a while ago and was so excited to find out it was ready. When I picked it up, I was blown away. Oh my! What she does is an art I tell you! If I may wax poetic for a moment...it's like I formed my creation, and she breathed life into it. Stunning. But, this a just a tease. I'm not going to show you the finished quilt today.

Here's a peek! I've been stitching and stitching.

Nope, I'm still hand-sewing the bound edges. Miles and miles of binding. Easy work, but there's a lot of it. I actually rather like this stage of the quilt process. You are at the end of the line with the project, yet, you are forced to slow down. Almost savor your way to the finish line. I'm excited for this long-haul project to be complete, but a little sad that it's over. Bittersweet.

I get to do something girly!

I'm drowning my sorrows in fat quarters. I have finished a new design and am diving into it this weekend. This time for my daughter. Gone is the boyish palette of earth tones. Her preferences lean heavily into pink, red, orange, and gray. It's going to be gorgeous. I sure hope she thinks so too!

–Cassandra

Hell in a Handcart

The project was started with such gusto. I sewed the work with such care. I even blogged about it. But..

Oh, I might as well just come out and say it. The Schoolhouse Tunic I was making for myself turned out too small. I measured myself and picked the size that seemed right, and I even cut the pieces out a little larger than needed (to allow for tailoring). As I sewed together the pieces and saw the garment take shape, it became pretty obvious, pretty quickly, that this tunic would be a little too snug.

I spent a couple days just looking at my dress form wearing the top portion of the garment. Feeling sorry for myself. But, in the end, it was my fault. The ladies would tell me no different.

Did I make a muslin? Nope. Will I make one next time? Damn straight. Lesson learned.

I ripped a few seams out to see if I could loosen it up a bit. Nope.

And then it occurred to me, my mom is small. This will fit her, it may even need to be brought in a little. So, it's hers. And I think she'll love it. I'm going to make lemonade here.

After a trip to the store for some muslin...I'll be back in the game. Cocky sewing attitude in check.

–Cassandra

PS - I'm sharing this with y'all because I know it looks like this sort of thing doesn't happen to us crafty bloggers. We like to show you the sunshine and often hide the rain. Alex and I think it's important to show some of our fails because it's our way of encouraging you. I fell off the horse, and I'm getting back on. Making doesn't come easily to anyone, no matter how it looks. So never let your challenges stop you from keeping on.

My Ladies

Over 20 years ago I was given my first sewing machine. It wasn't new (dated from about the late 1960's) but was seemingly never used and in perfect working order. I had such a desire to sew something but knew absolutely nothing about where to start. I needed help.

These were the days before YouTube and the Internet, and how-to books from the library read like stereo instructions. My best bet was personal instruction. I eagerly signed up for a "sewing 101" class at my local community college.

I still remember how excited I was on my first night of class. The room was full of a lot of other women my age (at the time that would have been about 22-23) that I chatted with in-between instruction. They were great fun and we all had so much in common. I left my class eager to come back the next week.

A few days later I got a letter in the mail. Apparently this class was too full and to even it out they were switching me to another class held by a different teacher. It was disappointing, but I figured the other class would be just like the one I was in...so no big deal.

The next week I arrived at my new class and was more than a bit surprised. From the looks of it, no one in this classroom was below the age of 65 (including the teacher). When I walked in with my sewing machine in hand the entire room was watching. But the teacher came and introduced herself to me right away, and made me feel immediately at home.

I learned quickly that this class was going to be far different than the one I had previously attended. There was no step-by-step beginner instruction through our patterns as there was in the other class. The reason for that was simple. Every woman in that room was a veteran seamstress. When I say veteran, I'm not just talking about their years behind a sewing machine. They were expert tailors and some even had been costume mistresses. (And made a point to mention that they were NOT quilters. Ahem.) They used this class as their own personal garment sewing club. I was the only beginner in that room.

The weeks that followed were magical. I had a room full of kindly instructors who were more than happy to patiently stop their own work to give me guidance. Before long I was a really confident seamstress myself. I finished one project after another and eagerly signed up for another term with "my ladies" after the first one was complete. Those ladies gave me so much more than sewing skills with their encouragement.

I really can't recall why I didn't sign up for a 3rd term. Who knows...life when you're 23 blows you around like a leaf in the wind. So, I never saw those ladies again. But I've sewn on. And every time I begin a garment sewing project, I think of them. Always I do.

The reason why I'm bringing this up is because my mother just gifted me with a dress form and a couple books on tailoring. Last Saturday, as I was adjusting my form to fit my figure and cutting out pattern pieces, the ladies were in my head. I cannot remember their names any longer, and the faces are fuzzy...but their words haven't left me. The advice, the tips and tricks, and the encouragement. I want to get back to doing more garment sewing for myself this year, and they are definitely coming along for the ride.

Thank you ladies, wherever you are.

–Cassandra

Holiday Distractions

I don't know if it's because Thanksgiving was so late this year, but boy December is moving fast. Barely enough time to get the shopping done...cookies and outside lights have fallen off my to-do list...but the house interior is decorated! Picking my battles. It feels good.

Of course, there was still plenty of making going on this past weekend...because you know, I will sacrifice most things in order to work on a project or two. Along with some knitting, my weekend creativity consisted mostly of...

New pajamas for little boys.

3 batches of Potica. (not my recipe but click the pic for more info)

Home-made pizza...mmmmm.

What is not pictured are the dust bunnies in the corner, baskets of laundry to fold, and the fridge that needs a good cleaning out. Hopefully I'll be getting to those this week, unless...well something distracts me. Something like the gorgeous new colored pencils I got from my Secret Santa last week. I just know they are itching for me to draw with them!

–Cassandra

Baby Quilt

One of my daughter Cammy's close friends recently had a gorgeous baby girl. She was so excited about her first friend ever to have a baby that she wanted to give her a gift that was really special.

We decided that we would make her a scrappy baby quilt with some hand quilting...together. You know, a mother-daughter bonding experience for us.

We joyfully started out at the fabric store. I let Cammy pick out the fat quarters (with a little guidance from me on how to choose your fabrics to get the scrappy look we wanted). It was fun to let her choose the fabrics because she picked patterns I wouldn't have chosen, and yet I loved how they worked together in the end. The teacher was the student!

The fabric was washed and pressed and we started cutting our strips. As I hovered over her cutting it was really becoming clear that my control freak tendencies were rearing their ugly head. I know cutting quilt fabric can be tricky, and I mean well...but I'm pretty sure my daughter wasn't having a good time.

After I came up with a simple design, we moved on to piecing the blocks. 1/4" seams are pretty exacting work for someone who never touched a sewing machine before. Bless her heart, the one block I let her piece looked great but came out about an inch too small. I set it in the pile of "soon to be potholders" and she looked really, really, sad. And I felt like some kind of quilting bully.

When school started up again (she's a college senior this year!), she was too busy to work together on this anymore. I pressed on and finished it in time for the baby shower. As disappointing of an experience this may have been for Cammy, she ended up adoring the quilt. And I did too. For a week before it was gifted, it rested on the back of a chair in the living room. Both of us had to pick it up and admire it every time we walked by. I hope this means there is still a little inspiration to be a sewist in her...somewhere. Maybe we can try again with a simpler project? Let's hope!

Every quilt has a story, doesn't it?

–Cassandra

Beginnings and Endings

 A little slice of my world this week....

: My latest quilt is done and off to my friend Gael to quilt for me. Ahhh, what did folks do before the long arm? I'm so excited to see it quilted!

: Quilt design iterations done. Time to start thinking about the next one.

: Home made bread and cream of mushroom soup (old old vegetarian cookbook). Heaven.

: Little projects to catch up on. More monster patches are in order.

: Re-knitting the eaten sweater. It feels so good to have yarn in my hands in the fall.

: I've been dreaming about a Schoolhouse Tunic for me. Anna Maria Horner LouLouthi voile on sale made it happen sooner rather than later. Can't wait to dig in!

–Cassandra

Gumdrop Pillows

Hi everyone!

On Sunday Alex and I got to have some fun. We met our friend Missy down at a wonderful local fabric store, The Sewcial Lounge, and took a class on the Amy Butler Gumdrop Pillows.

The three of us have been wanting to make these gorgeous tuffets for ages. The only thing holding us back was the cost of so much fiberfill...seriously, it takes an insane amount of those little bags you get at the craft store to fill up one of those pillows. But the cost of this class was reasonable and included the fiberfill. Perfect!

It was a blast. We laughed, sewed, nibbled on snacks, and stuffed those pillows for a half hour until they were full! Our teacher was the owner, Sara. What a doll. So sweet and helpful. I've taken many classes in my day, but I've never had a teacher who jumped in when you weren't looking and pinned your pieces or pressed your seams. She was a master at making a class clip along and gave invaluable tips and tricks that the pattern never mentioned. I would definitely take a class from her again.

Stuffing action shots:

The pattern itself was really pretty easy. We finished our projects during this three hour class. As a matter of fact, each of us has the notion to make more of these soon. By hook or by crook!

Mine.

Alex's

Missy's

Seriously, how adorable are these?

Cassandra